Archive for April, 2009

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil …… amazing city!

Sunday, April 19th, 2009
GENERAL INFORMATION – STATE OF RIO DE JANEIRO PDF Print E-mail

ImageRio de Janeiro beaches, with unique, unparalleled light and contour. A mini-Europe carved in the mountains. A valley which breathes the history of the coffee barons; refreshing waterfalls and warm water lakes. And of course, Rio, the Wonderful City.  So many appealing sights very near each other. The State of  Rio de Janeiro, perhaps for being one of the smallest in the country (with 43,000 square km) is a region which gathers rare beauties.

The first of these beauties is São Sebastião do Rio dejaneiro, whose history mingles with that of the country itself. Gaspar de Lemos and Américo Vespucio, the first sailors who arrived in the region in January 1503, thought the bay of Guanabara was a river. Because of the month they were in, they named the place Rio de Janeiro.

ImageIt is impossible to talk about Rio without thinking of its postcards. The statue of Christ the Redeemer towers at a height of 710 m (2329 feet), the construction of which was completed in 1931 and lit by the Italian inventor Guilherme Marconi; the Sugar Loaf rising to a height of 220 m (720 feet) with its well-known cable car offers an unforgettable sight of the city and the bay of Guanabara; the botanical garden, founded in 1809 by D. João VI, whose 141 hectares (348 acres) represent a microcosm of the national vegetation; and the Quinta da Boa Vista, former residence to kings and emperors. If Brazil was discovered in Bahia and its independence proclaimed in São Paulo, Rio in turn gave birth to the Republic and was the Nation’s capital for a longtime.

ImageFrom 1763 to 1960 the destinies of the Colony, the Empire, and the Republic were drawn in Rio de Janeiro; today the museums and other buildings of the city witness its importance. As an example, the Museum of the Republic, former Palácio do Catete, which was home to a great many presidents, or the National History Museum. Whoever strolls throughout the old city must visit the Municipal Theater and the former building of the Banco do Brasil, which today is home to one of the most important cultural centers of the country. Religious buildings must also be pointed out, like the Candelária Church, the Monastery of São Bento and the Convent of Santo Antonio at the Largo da Carioca. History and art mingle at the Feira do Rio Antigo at the Rua Lavradio, and shopping for crafts may be done at the Hippie Fair at the Praça General Osório in Ipanema.

ImageThe old city, although incomparable to those of contemporary metropolis, still carries souvenirs of the belle époque from the 10’s and 20’s. At the Rua do Ouvidor, Passeio Público, Rua da Carioca and places such as Confeitaria Colombo, echoes of a city immortalized by Olavo Bilac, Lima Barreto and João do Rio may be heard.

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WONDERFUL, DAY AND NIGHT
However, the Wonderful City does not live only from the past. Teeming with plains and sand banks which are intercepted by geological massive rocks, the strengths of the region are its coast. The itinerary of the beaches may have Leme as a starting point, moving on to Copacabana and lpanema, well depicted by the Bossa Nova songs. At last, São Conrado and Barra da Tijuca are irresistible choices. On top of that, Pontal de Sernambetiba and other places are examples of wonderful untouched beaches that may be visited.

The night life in Rio is a must. Night clubs offer great shows with national and international artists. A great many places have classical music concerts; and there are all kinds of dancing clubs, from gafieiras, where ballroom dances may be appreciated, to places where pop music is played. Whoever prefers the theater has also good choices. At last, a different kind of restaurant will always be open with Italian, Japanese, Chinese cuisine or the typical Churrascaria in a very cosmopolitan combination.

ImageRio loves parties. Carnival, the greatest of all, takes place in February. The show of the Escolas de Samba is delightful and well-known all over the world. This is how the heritage of the morros (inhabited hills within the city) is preserved. Samba reminds us of soccer; soccer reminds us of Maracanã, the stadium of memorable matches as well as unforgettable concerts: Frank Sinatra, Rolling Stones and Paul McCartney are a few examples.

ImageSeparated from Rio by the 13 kilometer long Presidente Costa e Silva bridge, Niterói (whose name means “hidden water” in the indigenous language Tupí) is another peaceful, relaxing haven. Founded on November 22, 1573, by the teminimó Chief Araribóia, it is a perfect spot for whoever wishes to go for a walk at dusk (at Icaraí, São Francisco or Charitas, for example), or live an adventure at far away beaches like ltacoatiara, Camboinhas, and Piratinainga. Niterói hides away other secrets like the Ary Parreiras Museum at lngá, and the beautiful church of the Colégio Salesiano dating from 1883. Next to the ancient buildings rise more modern ones like the Contemporary Art Museum, projected by Oscar Niemeyer. The nearby movie theater of the Fluminense Federal University offers movie festivals with films from several countries, whereas the Municipal Theater presents plays, ballet and music concerts of all sorts.

DUNES AND LAKES ON THE COAST
Ocean beaches, lakes, dunes, and eternally blue skies: the Costa do Sol stretches over 100 km (60 miles) along beaches and deserves its name (Sunny Coast). From the capital, the first region which is reached is the so-called Região dos Lagos, a reference to the delightful salt water lakes which originated the main local activity: salt extraction. The ancient windmills of the salt works may be seen all over the coast but they are not as old as the quaint, picturesque fisherman colonies. According to records, the colonies originated in the 16th century and, as legend goes, were blessed by father José de Anchieta himself as a fishing spot. True or false, fish has always been abundant in the town. For that matter, its main festival is the fishing festival, which takes place in mid May.

ImageSurrounded by a ridge of mountains, Maricá has calm warm water at the beaches which are formed by its lakes plus the Ponta Negra and Jaconé sea, especially appealing to fishing practitioners. Further to the north is Saquarema (take without shells, in tupi-guaraní), the surfer’s spot, who will find high waves in a wild ocean at the Praia ltaúna and Praia da Vila, home to the opening phases of the surf championships held in the country. A stop at the Church of Our Lady of Nazaré is a must for those who appreciate the sunset from a cliff projecting into the sea. Next is the blue and green Araruama lake (macaw lake, according to the Indians), 300 km long (186 miles), the second largest in the state, a frequent scenery to windsurf boards and the like. The Sail Tournament in October and the Laser Championship in November give the small town special liveliness. Calm warm waters continue on to Coqueiral, lguaba and São Pedro da Aldeia, a peninsula at the southern tip of the lake. At this site, on June 29, the sea procession of São Pedro changes the coast into a show of colors.

TRENDY RESORTS
If the Costa do Sol has “capitals”, they are definitely Cabo Frio and Búzios. The former is the greatest trading center of the region and has well-known beaches such as Praia do Forte or Praia das Conchas, in addition to examples of colonial architecture like the fort of São Mateus dating from 1616. With outstanding hotels and wharves, Cabo Frio appeals for its amazing white dunes and the Corpus Christis procession when Avenida Assunção is decoratively covered with salt, barilla, coffee and dyes.

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Búzios is the trendiest international resort town. Made famous in the sixties by artists like Brigitte Bardot, the place is always fashionable, mainly for its shop windows at Rua das Pedras. Summer houses, hostels and quaint bars enhance the magic of the town, which has stunning sights like those from Praia Brava and Praia do Forno. Speaking of beaches, the list – and the beauty – is endless: dos Ossos, Geribá, da Ferradura, da Foca, da Tartaruga… perfect sites for the fireworks and champagne of the New Year.

As far as handicrafts, ceramics are the greatest attraction and the local cuisine includes sea food in its dishes. Fish like anchova, corvina, and xerelete are found from Maricá  to Búzios. At the beach there is nothing like some fried fish or shrimp with a cold beer.

LOOKING FOR THE LOST VALLEY
The southern and central part of the state is another universe. Far from the beaches, it offers milder weather and represents an important period of the Brazilian history: the Coffee Cycle. Towns like Vassouras, Valença, Conservatória, Miguel Pereira and Paty do Alferes are proud of their colonial architecture as well as their palaces and mansions which belonged to the barons of the 19th century. Miguel Pereira displays curiosities like the ancient locomotive “Maria Fumaca” (Smoke Mary) adorned with royal palm trees, symbol of the wealth of the period. Vassouras was a sort of capital of coffee at the time, competing with Petrópolis. The forum of the city is located today at a mansion which belonged to the Baron of Ribeirão in his heyday.

Conservatória also has its mansions in a romantic environment. Its cuisine includes cheese, jams and sweets and by hiking at the woods, visitors may appreciate the local nature.

ImageEUROPE IN RIO
Petrópolis, Teresópolis and Nova Friburgo, which were founded by German and Swiss immigrants, bring up the European environment in the mountains of the state. The typical architecture, the design of the streets, everything reminds us of a different reality. The imperial family used to vacation in these places, mainly in Petrópolis, seeking a milder weather and escaping from the hot Summer in Rio. There they built a summer palace in 1845 which today is home to the Imperial Museum, a must for those visiting the city. It has relics such as the crown of Pedro I and Pedro II, the imperial mantle, and the family carriage.

Another attraction is the Crystal Palace, brought from France in 1879 by the Count D’Eu and used as a center for displaying orchids. Quitandinha, built in 1944 in a German style, was, in turn, a famous Casino until gambling was banned in Brazil. It is today a private condominium which has shows. Santos Dumont’s house – the inventor of the airplane – is an alpine cottage where the scientist lived for some years and has a very special stairway, with racket-shaped steps, forcing the visitor to start the way up with his right foot (he was said to be very superstitious). At last, the Cathedral of São Pedro de Alcântara built in a French gothic style where lie D.Pedro II and Princess Isabel.

ImageIf Petrópolis is history, Teresópolis is nature: The Dedo de Deus, rising to a height of 1692 meters, dominates the landscape of the city and the Serra dos Orgãos with its cascades, natural pools, peaks and mysterious places, making for an unforgettable experience. The city still has refreshing mineral water springs like that of Judith and Santa Angela in addition to beautiful buildings like Paço Municipal, and French styled Palacete Granado.

Nova Friburgo, founded by Swiss immigrants mostly from Fribourg was also an example of the prosperous Coffee Cycle; such wealth originated work like the São Clemente Park, projected by Auguste François Glaziou, the same French landscape architect who projected the Passeio Público, the Quinta da Boa Vista and the campo de Santana in Rio. It is a must to visit the district of Cascatinha (up to the Caledônia Mt.) and Lumiar, a pretty region of valleys.

The mountainous region is as rich in producing cheese and sweets as Vale do Paraíba; in some restaurants it is possible to sample roasted agouti. The textile industry produces coats and winter clothes for all ages with its main outlets at Rua Teresa, in Petrópolis. After all, a European climate may be cold enough for a tea or a hot chocolate.

This same climate may be found in the region from ltatiaia to Rezende, a true natural paradise with treasures such as the 30-meter high (100 feet) waterfall Véu da Noiva, on the Maromba stream and the ltatiaia National Park where flowers and fowls are stunningly beautiful, with over 300 species of the latter. Nearby Mauá is an alternative place, with hippie handicraft and a mountainous landscape perfect for hiking. Penedo has Finnish cuisine and folk dances as well as colorful candles, preserved by the descendants of its founders. The 2787 meter high Agulhas Negras Mt. is one of the postcards of the region and a great choice for climbers.

ImageESMERALD SEA AND MOUNTAINS
Finally, the place where the sierra meets the ocean is a sort of synthesis of the state: Costa Verde, with over 2000 beaches of emerald color, dotted by 300 islands. Yachts and sailboats sail across the region whose undersea world is even more beautiful than the surface. The Restinga da Marambaia protects these wonders from the wilderness of the ocean.

Angra dos Reis and ltacuruçá concentrate great part of the leisurely sailing of the country. That’s because the currents of the region bring the fishermen sword fish, shrimp, small sharks, cavalas, robalos and considerably large lobsters which may be sampled in restaurants and bars. Sailboat rides reveal islands, shores and incredible transparent water, perfect for diving. The Rio-Santos road itself is already a great scenery, with its winding bends that follow the contour of the coast.

ImageThe name Angra dos Reis originates from the time when the Portuguese sailor André Gonçalves discovered the place: King’s Day on January 6th, 1502. During the colonial time, the region was a spot for the exportation of gold, coffee and sugar. This may be clearly seen in Paraty, with its Portuguese style houses and cobblestone streets, which made the city a Historical Landmark. Automobiles are kept out of the historical center, where bars and restaurants abound. During the day, the options include a visit to the fort of Defensor Perpétuo or beaches like Trindade, Graúna and São Roque. The rich Portuguese folklore is represented by the Festa do Divino in May.


Candido Portinary – Brazilian Painter

Sunday, April 19th, 2009
CANDIDO PORTINARI, BRAZIL’S MASTER OF MODERNIST PAINTING PDF Print E-mail

ImageBorn in 1903 in Brodowski, close to the city of Ribeirão Preto, State of São Paulo, Candido Portinari is considered to be one of the greatest painter Brazil has ever produced, yet all but a few of his 4,000 paintings are out of public view. They have become dispersed in private collections in so many places that his biographer compared their fate to that of Brazil’s 18th-century revolutionary hero Tiradentes, whose body was dismembered and strewn along a 300-mile turnpike.

The inaccessibility of Portinari’s work is particularly vexing to his enthusiasts because his own dedication to producing an epic view of Brazil for his countrymen was such that he continued painting even after doctors warned him that exposure to paint was killing him. Portinari died of lead poisoning in 1962 at the age of 59.

Candido Portinari created also two giants panels interpreting the objective of the United Nations Charter, “to save succeeding generations from the scourge of war”. The twin murals, presented by the Brazilian Government as a gift to the United Nations in 1957, today dominate the Delegate’s Lobby of the General Assembly building at UN Headquarters in New York.

Brazilian painters

Sunday, April 19th, 2009


ImageGeorgina Moura Andrade de Albuquerque (Taubaté/SP 1885 – Rio de Janeiro/RJ 1962) and Lucilio de Albuquerque (Barras/PI 1877 – Rio de Janeiro 1939), were both extraordinary Brazilian painters. The Albuquerques met at National School of Fine Arts (ENBA) in 1904. Married two years later, the couple spent several years in Europe, where they both practiced a number of styles including impressionism, symbolism and art nouveau. In Paris, they studied at the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts and at the Académie Julian, being a pupil of Henry Royer (1869-1938), Marcel Baschet (1862-1941) and Jean-Paul Laurens (1838-1921). Lucilio took part in the National Exhibition of Brussels and executed stained-glass panels for the Brazilian pavilion at the International Exhibition of Turin in 1911.

In Brazil, Georgina was best known for her impressionistic style and her interest in female subjects.

Professors at the National School of Fine Arts (ENBA), both Lucílio and Georgina held the position of director of the National Museum of Fine Arts between 1937-1938 and 1952-1954, respectively. After Lucílio’s death, at the start of the 1940s Georgina de Albuquerque opened the Lucílio de Albuquerque Museum, the collection which currently belongs to the State Government of Rio de Janeiro.


Burle Marx the great Landscape Arquitect of 20th

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

Born in 1909 in the City of São Paulo, ROBERTO BURLE MARX is internationally known as one of the most important landscape architects of the 20th century.  He was an artist of multiple facets. Besides being a landscape and garden designer, he was also a remarkable painter, sculptor, singer, and jewelry designer, with a sensibility that is expressed throughout his work. Marx was the child of a Brazilian mother (Burle) and a German-Jewish father (Marx). His mother was interested in gardening and his father in design. He studied painting in Berlin at the age of 19 and, after two years in Germany, he returned to Rio de Janeiro to continue his studies at the School of Fine Arts.

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Roberto Burle Marx was fortunate to work with Lucio Costa (co-architect of Brasília). His garden designs were like abstract paintings, some curvilinear and some rectilinear, using native Brazilian plants to create blocks of colors. A surprising feature of his curvilinear designs was his relative insensitivity to the curves of underlying topography. Roberto Burle Marx’s best work was on flat surfaces, including roof gardens and the 5 km promenade at Copacabana beach (see above).

Burle Marx died at the age 84 (1994) in the City of Rio de Janeiro .

Brazilian States – Acre

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

Strategically abutting on Peru, Bolivia and the states of Rondânia and Amazonas, Acre is an as yet unexplored crossroads where the cultures of the Brazilian Northeast, the Andes, and the Amazon meet. Now seriously engaged in developing its tourist infrastructure, Acre is an enticing place for all those willing to undertake the adventure of discovering its history, entering its rainforests, basking in its sun and mingling with its people.

There is a great deal to learn in this westernmost of the Amazon states, where one may relish a northeastern “vatapá” and a Bolivian “salteña” or try the exotic flavors of the “tacacá”, a dish borrowed from the Indians, made with “tucupi”, the fermented manioc juice. Characterized by a hot and humid climate, the home state of labor leader and environmentalist Chico Mendes, assassinated in 1988, Acre has a history of political struggle.

Until the beginning of this century, Acre belonged to Bolivia but it was settled by migrants fleeing the drought in the Brazilian northeastern states of Ceará and Rio do Grande do Norte, who started the exploitation of the native rubber tree here. As the value of land rose, on the wake of the rubber boom, an international dispute arose between Brazil and Bolivia. In 1903, after the Acre Revolution – led by Plácido de Castro, a Gaucho from the far-away state of Rio Grande do SuI sent here on a federal government mission – Acre was purchased from Bolivia for two million pounds sterling and the promise of the construction the Madeira-Mamoré Railroad, which was to give Bolivia access to the Atlantic Ocean and which remained uncompleted because of the
region’s harsh working conditions.

THE CAPITAL’S ATTRACTIONS
The ideal starting point for the tourist wishing to see the state is Rio Branco, the capital, with a population of 200 thousand. Located on the banks of the Acre River, it offers different means of transportation.

The most propitious tourist season is from – March through September, the so-called Amazonian summer, when there is less rainfall and it is possible to enjoy the Amapá Beach, on the river that flows through the city’s 2nd district, three miles from downtown. An open-air music festival is held here in July-August.

Nearby is the Chico Mendes Ecological Park, where wild cats, pacas, jaguars and birds can be seen in captivity in the midst of native vegetation, a living example of the region’s biodiversity, one of the richest on the planet. Here one can learn about the primitive methods of rubber extraction, visit an “oca”, the Indian dwelling (there are Indian reservations created by the state, where thousands live; but many Indians live outside these reservations) and find out more about the life of the labor leader and environmentalist after whom the park is named.

The Capitão Ciríaco Urban Park shows a creative use of an old rubber tree tract as an area for picnicking or walking, near the new bridge connecting the city’s two districts. One can also visit the Tentamen, a beautiful restored manor from the early 20th century that used to house a club. Nearby, on the river, a promenade passes under a one-hundred years old tree, a ficus doliaria, revered by the new generations, more conscious of the importance of ecology and of the damage caused by the burning of the rain forest. Burnings have forced cattle-raising upon the region, where agriculture and lumber extraction are also explored. The “Horto Florestal”, the botanical garden, in the 1st district, is an excellent location for leisurely or brisk walks and for jogging amidst luxuriant vegetation.

EXOTIC FLAVORS
Local cuisine shows a commingling of influences, with its meat, poultry, or fish stews and “vatapá”-milder and lighter than the original Bahian version, made without the addition of cashew nuts. Dishes made with “tambaqui”, the typical fish of the region, or with “pirarucu”, the Amazonian cod, are delicious and can be tried at the Restaurante Flutuante, or floating restaurant, on the Acre River, which can be reached by way of the Base neighborhood, in the 1st district. Dolphins appearing by the floating restaurant in search of leftovers provide an additional attraction. There are great many kinds of fruit, some of which unavailable outside the north-northeastern region. Soursop, cupuaçu, açaí, among others, can be enjoyed in the form of puddings or – still better – ice-cream or sherbet. The plantain tart, made with crème patissière and meringue, is another recommended treat, as well as candied Brazil nuts and cupuaçu sweets.

BATHING AND OUTINGS
Those willing to devote a whole day to wonderful entertainment should ‘go bathing’— the local way of referring to a trip to a lake, a river or an “igarapé”, or natural channel. One of the best tourist outings is a visit to the Paraíso Restaurant, on a small lake, which can be reached by route BR-364, 15 miles from Rio Branco. Here one can enjoy lunch on weekends, bathe in the lake, feed the ‘tambaqui’ fish with a spoon (that’s right, with a spoon!) or sail on a little boat to a set of swimming pools and an artificial waterfall smack in the middle of the rain forest. The boat ride, lasting no more than 15 minutes, provides an opportunity to observe local vegetation and birds, such as waterfowl and even the less common “curió”. Caution: Do not forget to bring your sunscreen and insect repellent.

DAIME AND SOUVENIRS
In Rio Branco, those curious about the local culture will find many sects who drink “daime” (ayuhuasca), an internationally known hallucinogenic beverage adopted from the Indians, made with a mixture of “chacrona” leaves and the “jagube” liana, which was consumed by beatnik writers as a source of inspiration for their literary deliriums. Most sects allow visitors to attend ceremonies in which the beverage is drunk – always for religious purposes -, so as to discard the notion of having encountered a backwater Amsterdam! It is best to ask at the hotel for information about the places where the cult is practiced, such as the Santo Daime or União do Vegetal.

Rio Branco hosts an Agricultural and Livestock Fair in September-October on a farm near the International Airport, featuring livestock, music and dances from different parts of Brazil. Another local tradition is the St. Sebastian’s Festival celebrated on January 20 in Xapuri, Chico Mendes’s hometown.

Cruzeiro do Sul, Acre’s second largest city, reachable only by jet or small plane, is located on the Peruvian border and provides access to the Serra do Moa, near the Andes, with its exuberant, pristine vegetation and abundant wildlife. The trip is recommended only to those with experience in this type of adventure. Another park in the region is the National Serra do Divisor Park, established in 1989, on Brazil’s westernmost tip. Those interested in buying imports may take a car trip to Plácido de Castro, a small town one hour away from Rio Branco, across from Vila Montevideo in Bolivia. Those who prefer a more typical souvenir should look for Indian crafts next to the Municipal Library, in downtown Rio Branco, such as animals carved in wood or “seringa” as raw rubber is known.

Latin America Festival

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

From May 7th till 15th will take place the fifth Latin American Film Festival in the Louis Hartlooper Complex in Utrecht. The festival, which will present more than 40 feature films and documentaries displaying cultural and cinematographic diversity/aspects of the continent, will be opened with LINHA DE PASSE (2008), directed by Walter Salles, a Brazilian filmmaker and film producer of international prominence. Walter Salles gained international recognition by directing films such as DIÁRIOS DA MOTOCICLETA (The Motorcycle Diaries) and CENTRAL DO BRASIL. Both films will be screened in the festival during a special program on the works of the Brazilian filmmaker.

Brazil Sensational

Sunday, April 19th, 2009

Whoever gets to know it becomes a fan.

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